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Dust is cosmetic and reversible. UV is neither. What actually fades a painted figure, and how long it takes.

Dust sits on top of a figure and can be removed. Sunlight changes the material underneath and can’t. That’s the whole argument, and it’s why we’d rather you put a piece in a dim corner than in a beautiful bright window.
UV breaks the bonds in pigment and in the binder holding it to the surface. The visible result is a lightening that’s uneven, because the only parts that fade are the ones the light reaches. A figure standing in a window for a year doesn’t get uniformly paler. It gets a pale side and a normal side, and the boundary between them runs exactly where the window frame shadow falls.
Reds and some yellows go first. Deep greens and blues hold longer. On a piece with a lot of colour blocking, that means the colour relationships drift apart from how they were designed, and the figure slowly stops looking like the reference photos.
Glass blocks most UVB but far less UVA, so a window seat gets more exposure than people assume. Reflected light off a pale wall or a pale floor adds to it. And heat compounds the problem: a figure that gets warm every afternoon and cool every night expands and contracts daily, which over time is harder on a painted shell than steady temperature is.
You don’t need a dark room. You need to break the direct line between the figure and the sky. Options, roughly in order of how well they work:
Sometimes a partial repaint is possible, but matching a faded colour is genuinely difficult, because the target isn’t the original colour any more and it isn’t the faded one either. It’s somewhere in between and it keeps moving. Honestly, prevention is the only thing that works well here.

Green colourways age well in normal room light. Moss Pattern Panda has held its tone in our own studio for a long stretch now, and that’s with ordinary office lighting rather than anything special.